If you look at a cleaning product label from a company who refuse to disclose their ingredients (the bad guys), you’ll often see something like this.
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Aside from not actually telling you anything of note, the labels will always refer to Anionic and Nonionic Surfactants.
Even for me, this means very little.
What the heck are Anionic or Nonionic surfactants?
The purpose of this article is to demystify all of that, and explain exactly what these labels are referring to.
It can be difficult to remove greasy stains with water, so manufacturers add surfactants to cleaning products.
Surfactants are essentially cleaning agents. Soap is an example, although these days manufacturers tend to use synthetic detergents.
They are actually very smart chemicals that have two opposing ends. One end of the chemical is soluble in water and the other in fat. Hence, a surfactant can help mix oils and waters (which would normally sit on top of one another). When you have a liquid sitting on top of oil, there’s a lot of surface tension. Surfactants, by mixing the two, can reduce this surface tension, helping to wash away oily and water-based stains.
The chemistry of surfactants is complex, and most cleaning products use a blend of carefully chosen surfactants (e.g. fabric softeners require different surfactants to handwashes). Surfactants are categorized by the ‘chemical charge’ of their water-soluble end:
An ionic surfactant is one that has an electric charge.
There are three types of ionic surfactant:
Anionic surfactants are commonly found in laundry detergents, handwashes, kitchen cleaners, body washes. They are the most widely used and versatile surfactants. They are the most effective at removing oily residue. But, as the most potent surfactants, also cause skin irritation.
The most popular and widely used surfactants, anionic surfactants can be found in almost every cleaning product. It’s estimated that 45% of the $46 billion global surfactant market is made from anionic alone [1]. The most popular anionic surfactants are [2]:
Anionic surfactants can be produced from a range of raw fats and oils, including soybean, palm, tallow, and coconut. This has led to the development of milder anionic surfactants such as ‘potassium cocoate’, which reduces skin irritation and palm oil consumption while improving ecological sustainability (although are more expensive) [3].
The other two ionic surfactants are used much less frequently.
Cationic surfactants are commonly found in fabric softeners and disinfectants. They are less commonly found in household products, but cationic surfactants are more effective at killing microorganisms, and so are used as disinfectants.
Amphoteric surfactants are most commonly found in shampoos and body washes. These are the least potent surfactants and are found in personal care products designed for sensitive skin. They are also good foaming agents, so are also used in handwashes.
Nonionic surfactants contain no charge. They are commonly found in laundry and dishwasher detergents. They are the second most widely used surfactants after anionic. These molecules have no charge and so they are less likely to form a ‘soap scum’ in hard water. They are generally less effective than anionic, but for some people cause less skin irritation.
If anionic are the most popular surfactants, nonionic are a close second, widely used in a range of cleaning, personal care, and disinfectant products as well as industrial processes. The most common anionic surfactants are:
In areas with hard water (high mineral content), nonionic surfactants are more heavily marketed, as they are less likely to form a soap scum [4]. The nonionic surfactants are less likely to cause skin irritation, but this is associated with a less potent cleaning ability.
Most cleaning products blend anionic and nonionic surfactants to balance cleaning potential with the risk of skin irritation.
In most countries, there is no legal requirement for cleaning products to specify which surfactants they use (including the US and EU). It’s a bad situation, that led to the formation of this site. We will only review products that have full ingredient disclosure. Otherwise, it’s impossible to know what kind of surfactant is giving you an itch, a rash or much worse.
Here’s what I mean. The following are examples of common cleaning product labels – showing the extent of the available information in mainstream laundry detergents.
With the provided information it’s easy to tell the blend and type of ingredients, but impossible to determine the specific chemicals.
That said, even if the ingredients were all listed, there is no straightforward way to identify between an ‘anionic’ or ‘nonionic’ surfactant, without research e.g. ‘potassium cocoate’ is anionic, ‘glyceryl cocoate’ is nonionic.
Surfactants are used in cleaning products to reduce surface tension, helping to wash away oil and grease. There are four main categories of surfactant, ionic (anionic, cationic, and amphoteric) and nonionic. Anionic are the most widely used and potent, but they are associated with skin irritation. Nonionic are also found in many household products, and their main advantage is to not form ‘soap scum’ in hard water.
Very few cleaning products list their surfactants and are not currently compelled to do so by law in either the US or EU.
Instead, ingredient label list the overall blend of surfactants, making it impossible to avoid particularly harsh or allergenic ingredients.
So stick with us for now. There is change afoot with legislation, but in the meantime, we will only review products that have full ingredient disclosure. We will give our opinion on these ingredients, and we will tell you how well they clean.
That’s why we’re here!
[1] Grand View Research, Inc. (). Surfactants Market Analysis by Product, by Application, and Segment Forecasts To . www.grandviewresearch.com
[2] Falbe, J. (). Surfactants in consumer products: Theory, Technology and Application. Springer Science & Business Media.
[3] Pedrazzani, R., Ceretti, E., Zerbini, I., Casale, R., Gozio, E., Bertanza, G., & Feretti, D. (). Biodegradability, toxicity and mutagenicity of detergents: integrated experimental evaluations. Ecotoxicology and Environmental Safety, 84, 274-281.
[4] Mukhopadhyay, P. (). Cleansers and their role in various dermatological disorders. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 56(1), 2.
At Formula Botanica, we often get asked about surfactants – those fascinating functional ingredients that make cleansing magic. So I thought, why not dedicate a post to them?
In this article, we’ll be taking an in-depth look at surfactants. While there are different kinds, we’ll focus exclusively on the ones used in cleansing and foaming products, as they’re the ones you’re most likely to use in your formulations, whether that’s in your facial cleansers, shower gels, body washes, or shampoos.
And while this is a more advanced topic, there’s no need to feel worried! In this post, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about surfactants, from what they are, why they’re so important, and how they work in water-based formulations. I’ll even share five of my favourite natural surfactants that you can experiment with and which will take your formulation skills to the next level. Ready to get started? Let’s dive in!
For more Phosphate Ester Surfactantsinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
First, let’s discuss what surfactants are and how they work in formulations.
Surfactants, or surface active agents, are a versatile group of ingredients found across multiple industries, from food and construction to pharmaceuticals and personal care. In skincare and haircare, they act as functional ingredients and are mostly responsible for the cleansing and, in some cases, foaming properties of your favourite shower products.
But here’s a surprising fact: cleansing and foaming aren’t always connected. While some surfactants create the rich, bubbly lather that people typically associate with cleanliness, others are specifically designed to reduce or completely stop the foam. And while it can enhance the sensory appeal of a product, foam isn’t a true measure of how well it cleans.
Surfactants also include emulsifiers, solubilisers, dispersers, wetting agents and detergents. If you’re curious to learn about the difference between solubilisers and emulsifiers, check out this post:
Solubiliser vs. emulsifier: Which one do you need?
Now that you know what surfactants are, let’s discuss their chemical structure. Don’t worry: it’s very straightforward!
Surfactants have a water-loving (hydrophilic) head and a water-hating (hydrophobic) tail. As you can see from the chart below, the kind of charge contained within the water-loving head will determine the kind of surfactant you’re working with:
For more on the chemical structure of surfactants, check our Advanced Diploma in Organic Cosmetic Science.
Surfactants are present in many cleansing products, and their effectiveness lies in their unique molecular structure and ability to interact with both oil and water. Let’s break down how these ingredients work to remove dirt and grime:
When a surfactant is added to water, its molecules arrange themselves in a specific way. Each surfactant molecule has two key parts:
Once introduced, the hydrophobic tails of the surfactant molecules seek out and attach themselves to dirt and oils. This happens because dirt is often oil-soluble, making the hydrophobic (lipophilic) tail the perfect match to bond with it.
The surfactant molecules then surround the dirt or oil particles, forming structures called micelles. The hydrophobic tails stay attached to the dirt, while the hydrophilic heads remain oriented toward the water. This action detaches the dirt or oil from the surface (be it skin, hair, or textiles) and suspends it in the solution.
The final step involves rinsing. The hydrophilic heads keep the encapsulated dirt suspended in water, allowing it to be washed away effortlessly. This process ensures that dirt is removed from the surface and carried out of the solution, leaving behind a clean and refreshed surface.
If you’d like to learn even more about the different types of surfactants and how they work, check out our Advanced Diploma in Organic Cosmetic Science.
At this point, you’re probably curious about how to formulate natural surfactants.
The term “natural” or “green” surfactant doesn’t have a universally accepted definition, so it can mean different things to different people. You can learn more about the different shades of natural in our first-ever podcast episode:
Episode 1: What does natural skincare mean?
Ultimately, the choice of surfactants is entirely up to you. When selecting your surfactants, consider the following factors:
If you haven’t worked with surfactants before, I recommend you start with non-ionic surfactants. Here’s why:
If you’re interested in learning more about non-ionic surfactants and how to use them in your skincare or haircare formulations, we cover them in our foundation Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation and our Diploma in Organic Haircare Formulation.
While non-ionic surfactants are generally interchangeable in theory, as a formulator, it’s important to be prepared for slight variations in how each one behaves within a formulation.
To help guide your formulation process, I’ve compared five of the most popular plant-derived non-ionic surfactants that you can experiment with:
Here’s a detailed comparison table to help you choose the best non-ionic surfactant for your formulations:
Surfactant Trade name Certification* Properties pH Active matter Coco Glucoside Sucranov™ 818 UP -BergaSoft CG 50 / MB EcoSense™ 919 Ecocert Very mild, good foam stabilising quality, good hydrating properties, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Decyl Glucoside BergaSoft DG 50 / MB -ORAMIX™ NS10 / Plantacare® UP -EcoSense™ Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Biodegradable, excellent and stable foam, works very well with Cocamidopropyl betaine ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Lauryl Glucoside BergaSoft LG 50 / MB -EcoSense™ / Plantacare® UP Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Very mild, moderate foaming, excellent viscosity builder, good in baby cleansing products, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Sucrose Cocoate TEGOSOFT® LSE 65 K Soft N/A Mild, increases foam density & viscosity, adds creaminess, has good re-fatting qualities, moisturising and anti-static, biodegradable ∼6.5-7.5 ∼65% Caprylyl/Capryl glucoside BergaSoft CCG 70 / MB -ORAMIX™ CG110 Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Creates fine and stable foam, mild, good solubiliser for essential oils, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50% (There are various versions)*Certification – Whether the natural surfactant is available as a certified ingredient will depend on your supplier, but these ingredients are generally accepted by the listed certification bodies. You can find out more about green certifications here.
The ASM is a percentage that represents the concentration of the surfactant. When you buy a surfactant, it won’t be delivered to you as a “pure” ingredient as such, but it will be diluted in water. If the ASM is 60%, this means the ingredient you’ve just purchased contains 60% surfactant and 40% water.
Knowing the ASM of your natural surfactant is important when deciding how much of your ingredient should be used in a cosmetic formulation. For example, you would use less natural surfactant in a facial cleanser than in a body cleanser, so your formulation is not so ‘harsh’ on the skin.
I conducted a simple foam test to see how well these natural surfactants perform when it comes to creating foam. While you now know that a product doesn’t need to foam to effectively clean your skin or hair, most people still expect their cleansers and shampoos to foam when they use them. That’s why many formulators aim to create a rich, dense lather to enhance the user experience.
For this test, I mixed five solutions, each containing 10% surfactant and 90% distilled water, and transferred them into foamer bottles (essential to create the foaming effect!). I then compared the foam produced by each solution, which you can see in the image below:
As you can see, all five natural surfactants produced foam, though some were more effective than others. Here are my observations:
Which surfactant will you try first? Let me know in the comments below!
I hope you enjoyed this post and found it helpful!
If you’re ready to dive deeper into the fascinating world of skincare formulation, our free training course is the perfect starting point. You’ll learn how to make your own natural skincare products – even if you’ve ever done it before – and become a confident formulator instead of a simple recipe follower. Sign up now to start your free formulation journey!
And if you’ve already completed our free mini course, why not take the next step with our award-winning Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation?
Non-ionic surfactants are a fantastic way to start your journey into foaming products. They’re gentle and mild and can create a nice, rich foam. Plus, they’re highly versatile and work well with all other surfactants.
Absolutely! In fact, mixing surfactants can help improve performance. Try blending surfactants from different charge groups, or even within the same group to see how they perform together.
No, not all natural surfactants foam the same way. Some may produce more foam, while others may create a lighter lather (or not at all!). It depends on the type of surfactant and the formulation you’re using.
The right surfactant depends on your formulation goals. Consider the cleansing power, foaming ability, and overall gentleness you need. Testing and observation will guide you in finding the best fit for your product.